From Fluffy to Firm: Choosing the Perfect Wool for Knitting & Crocheting
- Stephanie
- Feb 5
- 5 min read
When it comes to knitting and crocheting, the type of yarn you choose plays a big role in the outcome of your project. Wool yarn, in particular, is a favorite among we fiber artists due to its warmth, elasticity, and durability. However, not all wool yarns are created equal!
Understanding the different types of wool available can help you select the perfect fiber for your next project. In this guide, we’ll explore the most popular types of fiber, as well as some characteristics of fiber/yarn such as micron count and ply. In the end though, the ultimate decision on yarn choice comes down to you - what feels right, looks right, and behaves right - to you!
Understanding Micron Count Wool fiber is classified by its diameter, measured in microns (µm). Sounds kind of science-y, right? I love science. Anyway, the lower the micron count, the finer and softer the wool. Generally, fibers with a lower micron count are more suitable for garments worn next to the skin, while higher micron wools are better for outerwear and durable projects. I have seen some different breakdowns of the micron categories (and some sheep breeds may straddle the micron range of categories), but here are some general guidelines of wool breeds and their micron counts:
Fine Wool (≤25 microns) – Examples include Merino, Cormo, and Rambouillet; ideal for ultra-soft garments, baby blankets, scarves and the like.
Medium Wool (24 to 31 microns) – Includes Corriedale and Finnish Landrace, a bit stronger than finewools yet definitely (and comfortably) wearable; ideal for sweaters, mittens, hats, socks, etc. Basically, everything!
Down and Down-type Wools (24 to 34 microns) - Examples include Shropshire and Suffolk, these fibers tend to be lofty and springy (what a great description!), and they feel bouncy and crisp. They are often used as filler in wool yarns as they give some bulk to the finished product.
Long Wools (24 to 41 microns) – Examples include Bluefaced Leicester, Cotswold, and Perendale; the finer end of the spectrum can be great for shawls, blankets, socks, sweaters but the rougher end of the spectrum is better suited for hand-wovens and the textile industry.
Primitive and Dual-Coated (micron count may vary widely by breed) - Animals in this category grow complex coats that differ in length, texture, fineness, and even color (within the same fleece!). Examples include Icelandic (micron 19 to 30), Scottish Blackface (micron 28 to 38+), and Shetland (micron 12 to 40)
What Does Ply Mean in Yarn? Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to create a yarn. It affects the thickness, strength, and durability of the yarn. The most common plies include:
Single Ply (1-ply): A single strand of fiber, creating a soft but delicate yarn with less structure. Ideal for lightweight projects and lace knitting.
2-Ply: Two strands twisted together, adding more strength while maintaining softness. Good for fine knitting and crochet projects.
3-Ply and 4-Ply: These provide better durability and stitch definition, making them suitable for garments and accessories.
Multi-Ply (5 or more plies): The higher the ply, the more rounded and sturdy the yarn, making it great for structured garments, socks, and long-lasting projects.
Now let's move on to some of the more common wool types! This is but a sampling of breeds out there. I highly recommend the book "The Knitter's Book of Wool: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding, Using, and Loving this Most Fabulous Fiber" by Clara Parkes. I gleaned much of the info above and below from her books.
1. Merino Wool Merino wool is one of the softest types of wool available, making it ideal for garments that will be worn next to the skin. It comes from Merino sheep and is known for its fine fibers, which create a smooth and luxurious texture. Merino typically ranges between 17 to 22 microns, with finer grades offering incredible softness. This yarn is perfect for scarves, sweaters, baby clothes, and accessories. Additionally, Merino wool is breathable and has excellent moisture-wicking properties, keeping you comfortable in various temperatures.
2. Shetland Wool Shetland wool comes from Shetland sheep, which are native to Scotland’s Shetland Islands. This wool is more rustic and slightly coarser than Merino, with a micron count typically around 28 or so (but can range from 12 to 40!). It is ideal for traditional Fair Isle and colorwork knitting. It is durable and warm, perfect for outerwear, shawls, and heirloom-quality pieces.
3. Bluefaced Leicester (BFL) Wool Bluefaced Leicester wool is another soft and lustrous wool variety. It has a slight sheen and excellent drape, with a micron count of around 24 to 28. This makes it a great choice for lightweight garments, shawls, and lace projects. BFL is known for its durability and resistance to pilling, making it a great choice for frequently worn items.
4. Alpaca Wool Though not technically wool (since it comes from alpacas rather than sheep), alpaca fiber is often included in wool blends. Alpaca yarn is incredibly soft, warm, and lightweight, with fiber microns generally ranging from 18 to 30. It doesn't have the elasticity of sheep wool, but its warmth-to-weight ratio is impressive. It’s perfect for luxurious scarves, hats, and cold-weather garments. We visited an alpaca farm in northern Michigan a couple of years ago. Check out the handsome little fella below . . .
5. Icelandic Wool Icelandic wool is unique due to its dual-layered structure. The outer fibers (tog) are long and water-resistant, while the inner fibers (thel) are soft and insulating. The fiber typically falls in the 19 to 30 micron range, making it excellent for warm, durable garments like traditional Icelandic sweaters (Lopapeysa). It’s an excellent choice for winter gear and outdoor clothing. I visited Iceland several years ago (gorgeous!) and while I didn't hug any sheep, I did get to pet some Icelandic horses. This guy had some serious bed head going on!
6. Cashmere Wool Cashmere is one of the most luxurious fibers available, derived from the undercoat of cashmere goats. It is incredibly soft, warm, and lightweight, with a micron count as low as 14 to 16. Due to its delicate nature, cashmere is often blended with other fibers to increase durability. It’s best suited for elegant scarves, shawls, and fine garments where softness is a priority.
7. Rambouillet Wool Rambouillet wool, sometimes called French Merino, is soft yet has more elasticity than traditional Merino wool. It has a micron count similar to fine Merino (19 to 23 microns), making it great for garments that require structure while maintaining comfort. This wool is ideal for sweaters, socks, and other wearable projects that need both durability and softness.
8. Highland Wool Peruvian Highland wool is a blend of Corriedale and Merino sheep fibers, making it strong yet soft. It’s more rustic than Merino, with a micron count around 27 to 30, but still comfortable against the skin. This wool is often used for warm sweaters, blankets, and cozy accessories.
9. Wool Blends Blending wool with other fibers enhances its properties, making it suitable for many different types of projects.
Merino Wool and Nylon: This blend is commonly used for socks and high-wear items, as nylon adds strength and durability to the softness of Merino.
Wool and Silk: This combination adds sheen and drape, making it ideal for luxurious shawls and fine garments.
Wool and Acrylic: A cost-effective blend that maintains wool’s warmth while reducing weight and increasing affordability.
Wool and Cotton: Provides a breathable and versatile yarn, perfect for transitional weather garments.
Phew!! That's a lot of info, and there's so much more to learn. Fascinating, right? Whether you’re looking for the softness of Merino, the durability of Shetland, or the luxury of cashmere, there’s a wool type suited for every project. Happy stitching! Check out our current lineup of yarn bases by clicking the button below.
Do you have a favorite wool yarn for your projects? Share your experiences in the comments below!
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